53 of 99HighlightPrint the first 7 pages here to take with you to use on a GABLE ROOF tent installation site

HighlightPrint the first 7 pages here to take with you to use on a GABLE ROOF tent installation site.
INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Section 1. ASSEMBLY INFORMATION GABLE TENTS. Please read this carefully. I am not able to remember every tip and tell it to you over the phone. I have hundreds of photos on the net so you can get an easy idea on how to put your tent up. Look for the word photos or pictures. If you can't locate them you can send me an e-mail telling me if you have a broadband internet connection so I can send more and larger pictures which take some download time. Click here to e-mail me with any questions.

Skill Level required to assemble this tent: 3.5 on a 10 scale. It is sort of like
putting together parts from an erector set which is a little harder than Legos. It is easier than programming your VCR for most people.

1. TARPS: Tarps are sold as a cut size. The printed finished size 'foot print' is always about 1 to 3% smaller than the cut size. Allow for tarp frame width reduction when using peak hardware .

2. TOOLS NEEDED: Screw driver or big nail, hammer, hack saw, step ladder or chair, patience, logical thinking, a good friend and a cell phone to call Brian 713-467-3025 when you reach the end of your rope.

3. INVENTORY: Check to see that all of the boxes in the shipment have arrived including the tarp, the hardware, the foot pads and the bungees. The boxes will be marked 2 of 3 etc. Some cushioning will be provided in the box to prevent the parts from poking through the sides of the box. If you are short a connector it will be shipped by the same carrier that was used on the order. It will not be sent by air. Order your tent well in advance and inspect it completely immediately on arrival. Check your diagram to be sure how many fittings are being shipped in your order. Many parts look almost the same. All fittings have a identifying sticker tag which will match a point on the diagram that will come with your tent. If you have lost your diagram you should be able to find one on the Party Tent City. COM web page.
Locate the model you ordered below section 6 of the 99 sections on the big website www.PartyTentCity.com . Click on that model you purchased and print out the diagram if you have lost the one that came in the shipping order.

4. TARP SIZE: Open the tarp in a large clean flat area. Measure the tarp exactly. This does not mean to read what is on the label. Use a big tape measure. With a felt pen write the exact size on all the corners of the tarp with arrows pointing the direction of the size. Even If it is a square tarp use a felt pen to make an arrow and a size so you will use it correctly in building your tent. The cut or ordered size can be about 1-3% larger that the finished size. A square tarp will not be exactly square. Tarps made overseas are not priced as you would for surgical steel. Measure it even if it has a printed size. 99.9% of the time the finished size printed is NOT what you get. Use a tape measure.
The manufacturer will only be in the ballpark. Your frame needs to be exactly built to the size of your tarp. That is why we can not tell you exactly what size to cut each metal pipe section of your tent.
Your hardware is adjustable down to an fraction of an inch by cutting the pipe and using the expandable space within the connector fitting to increase or decrease you tent size. .

The tarp is not adjustable unless you buy a grommet kit for $9.00. We do NOT open new tarps and measure
them prior to shipping. They would look used.

4a. PIPE: Cutting the pipe is basically a matter of mathematics but can be done by trial and error.
Cut the pipe to fit the tarp with your tent. Usually you will be cutting most pieces of the pipe.
If you have a tent with a valance you can purchase an oversized tarp like a 24' x 20' tarp on a 20 ft frame. You won't have to cut a lot of the pipe in the trusses since you can use the 10 ft pipes full length by adjusting the locking bolt space in the connector. .
Our $30 pipe vise and pipe cutter set is a bargain and will save you a lot of time.

It will give you a clean cut that takes very little filing. If you return pipe cutter and pipe vise for a full refund no questions asked. IT seldom happens because most people just love having a pipe cutter. This no risk buy back plan is for the pipe cutter and vise does not apply to the tent. We want you to be a most satisfied customer. The pipe cutter and pipe vise kit for $ 30 is a real bargain. Let me know if you think otherwise. The pipe cutter makes a smooth clean cut. There are no shavings to clean up. The edge does not need to be usually filed. Most people find it such a bargain that they never take me up on this offer

Insert the pipe into the peak corner fittings. f
The side edge fittings will have a port where the support leg poles are inserted.

4b. BUILDING THE TRUSSES: The triangles are built around the size of the tarp and NOT the other way. Build the roof triangle truss using the shortest distance of your tarp. The first piece you will lay out will be a peak end. You would normally deduct 4- 8 inches from the total width of the tarp and divide that number by two to determine your pipe length to be cut for the length from the edge to the peak on a 20 ft wide tent. Plan to have the tarp just touch the pipe unless your tent has a valance in which case it would go over the edge of the top side pipe and be connected to the valance pipe about 8 inches down the side. When everything looks square and straight tighten all locking bolts.

4c. WIND: You must plan for significant wind. Tarps can be come kites unless they are secured immediately. Secure the entire system to the ground with weights on each support pole. You can use 2 concrete blocks ($ 1.50 at Home Depot ) placed on top of the footpads and or ropes to the frame and secured to stakes driven diagonally into the ground. If you are using weights also try to secure the frame to a tree, pole, fence, building or other firm structure at least on one corner to keep the tent from being an unstable structure.

5. TRUSS SIZES: On the inside truss pipe you would deduct 8” instead of the 6” because of the way the pipe meets the hardware tarp fitting. If you are adding sides some of the tarp sections will be hung with 6" ball bungees and the 9" will also be used when going around the fittings or the corner. The tarp should just touch the edge of the pipe so the 6" ball bungees should be long enough.
The bottom of the right triangle horizontal to the ground will be smaller than the roof part of the triangle.
The last piece you cut in the truss is the vertical strengthening piece that is inside the big triangle to make two right triangles. The size is determine by trial and error as you lay it out on the ground. Usually all pipe should be cut with the peak exactly in the center so that all of the lower connections will line up.

Assemble all of your trusses at one time so you can visually see them side by side. ALL TRUSSES SHOULD BE IDENTICAL. After this is done you can assemble two trusses to make the first section of your tent. Keep several step ladders handy to rest the frame if you are short of help.

6.FITTINGS: All fittings allow the pipe to be seated at different positions. Some fittings do not allow the pipe to go to the end. The fitting pipe may be welded over another pipe. Double check your measurements after you cut your pipe and adjust the pipe with the locking bolts. A little shorter pipe allows you to move the pipe either way inside the fitting so it lines up identically. An exact cut pipe does not allow you any adjustment room.

Click on photo for larger view.
The bottom F3b through fitting rests on top of the footpad.

The ball bungees are 6" and 9". The elastic band goes through the tarp grommet hole and is pulled around the pipe and then slipped back over the ball. This is a great invention and allows you to take your tarp off quickly when you need to do so.

Click on photo for larger view.

Click on photo for larger view. Footpads allow you to put your tent just about anywhere. Usually you get only 3 holes in the footpad. .

7. THE TRUSS TRIANGLE. In a right triangle "A" squared plus " B "squared = C squared. The tent angle is 12 degrees. The horizontal reinforcing pipe in the triangle will be shorter than the opposite roof peak pipe in the triangle. Pipe can be adjusted in the fitting and secured in place with the locking bolt. If you are using an oversized tarp like a 20x 24 size on a 20 ft. frame you can seat the bottom part of the triangle all the way in but the upper part of the triangle will not be inserted all the way into the end of the connector so as to extend the peak pipe longer than 10 ft by using the 3" of extra space in each port of each fitting. This is why you don't have to cut the pipe to make the length different if you purchased an oversized tarp.
The connector adjustment area helps make a 10 foot pipe actually about 10 1/2 feet so the bottom pipe does not have to be cut. If you do not have an oversized tarp this method will not work so you will have to cut all the pipe sections in the truss.

8.THE FIRST 2 TRUSSES. After all trusses (roof triangles) are built exactly the same, assemble the frame with the full 10 ft. expanding sections between the trusses. You can lay the first triangle flat on the ground and insert all of the 10 ft pipe in the open ports. Be sure your locking bolt is unscrewed so the pipe will seat against the end of the connector and not against the bolt hanging down. Lock the pipe down by tightening the eye bolt so the pipe doesn't fall out when you raise up the frame. When you tilt the structure over you will be able to attach the 2nd truss. Lock these pipes by tightening the eye bolt now so it doesn't fall out when you raise it up.

9. TRUSSES 3, 4, ETC.: When you have the first 2 trusses connected and up you can inset the 10 ft sections of pipe in the completed section and then add the 3rd truss. Be sure the first two have weight on the foot pads to counter balance weight of the pipe until the 3rd section of the support legs. When you are ready to attach the last truss you will have to be cut the 10 ft pipe so that the final edge of the tarp just touches the pipe. Do this with a tape measure since you know the exact length of the tarp.

10. WHEN TO ATTACH THE TARP. Only on 10 ft wide tents can you attach the tarp to the roof frame while it is on the ground. Anything larger than that requires that you assemble the frame and adjust the frame with the locking bolts. Bolts should be snug. Do NOT exert extra pressure on the bolts as it could strip them. It will strip the bolts and then they won't be able to lock the frame down.
The tarp should be snug touching the frame and not stretched. The larger tents should be assembled with one section at a time placing the tarp over the frame only when the frame is completely built and re-measured to be sure that it will meet the pipe exactly the way it should.

Click on photo for
larger view.

Click on photo for larger view.
Water ponding potential.
Keep your tarp tight or
buy extra trusses.

Click on photo for
larger view.
This accumulated
water gets
heavy and can
collapse your tent.

Click on photo for
larger view.
Sign Holder

11. WIND: You want plenty of help so the wind doesn't grab the tent as a kite until you can get it locked down securely. Ropes can be used to pull the tarp over the frame. Extra ladders of different sizes on the work site are always helpful. Once you get the first section up you have to get to the top of the tent to tighten the locking bolt.

12. SUPPORT LEGS: The support poles are usually 6.5 to 7.5 ft. unless you absolutely need a higher covered area. If you are using side tarps the support poles may have to be about 3 inches longer due to the position of the foot pad. A side tarp hardware usually goes just above the top of the foot pad. The higher your support poles the more you expose your tent to the wind. All tiny pieces in the truss triangles can be the pieces left over from cutting the support legs.

13. NO FOOT PADS. When you want your side tarps to go all the way to the ground you have to order Not-Thru Valance fittings that allow you to attach the side tarp to the frame which sits on the ground eliminating the need for ordering the footpads. This is a little harder to install than a tent on foot pads because it has to be very exact.

14. ATTACHING FOOTPADS: Attach the foot pads to the poles before you attach the support legs to the frame. Position all support poles about where you will need them when you start to raise the frame. Insert the support pole into the down piece of the frame triangle. Lock the pipe down so it doesn't fall out when you raise it up.

15. COLOR CODING YOUR TENT: Once you have finished putting your tarp canopy together mark or color code all your pipe and fittings with tape or a felt pen so you can quickly reassemble the tarp the next time you use it. Ex. A goes with A. and BB goes with BB, 1 with 1, etc. Red with Red, Blue with Blue, Green with Green. etc. We sell 7 rolls of different colored electrical tape ( which is hard to find ) for $10.

16.ATTACHING THE TARP TO THE FRAME: When your frame is rock solid you can tie ropes to the tarp and slide it over the frame or hand it over using stepladders. If you have cut your pipe correctly you should use mostly 6" ball bungees .
Use the 9” ball bungees when the tarp does not touch the pipe.

17.TAKING THE TENT DOWN. When you are taking the frame down it can be just as dangerous when you install it. Remove the tarp first and roll it up dry and clean. Anticipate anything that may occur when you remove support leg from a support pole when you are disassembling the tent. Keep children away while you dismantle your tent.

19. PIPE LENGTH. When a customer first gets his tent the question always comes up on how many of the 10 ft pipe have to be cut. In general most of them have to be cut. Because no 2 tarps are exactly the same I will NOT be able to tell you how long to cut the pipe. You will cut a lot less pipe if you order an over sized tarp for a 20 ft wide tent.

22. WIDER TENT. If you are buying a tent with a valance or sides you can purchase a oversized tarp like a 24x20 on a 20x20 tent, a 24'x30' tarp on a 20x30, and a 24x40 on a 20x40 tent, you will have a larger footprint or over all size of the tent Because the wider tarp will be used to make a valance without shrinking the size of your tent which occurs when you lose footprint size because of
A. Tarps are not as big as they say they are.
B. The 12 degree incline use up.
C. The Valance uses up some of the tarp.
The oversized tarp allows you to cut less pipe on 20 ft models. The oversized tarps 12 ft wide are also available for the 10 ft wide tent models.

23. SAME SIZE PIPE. If you want the distance between your trusses to be all the same you can just cut the first truss to truss sections shorter and the last section longer making them all the same for easier reassembly.
Color code and mark all pipe and connectors as soon as you have finished.

24. VALANCES. Valances are handy in that they slide up and down the support pipe and keep the top tarp tight. A valance will make your tent stronger, look nicer and help you to keep the roof tarp adjusted taut. If your tarp is NOT taut and has a loose area where rain water may pocket it could bend the pipe and collapse the tent. See Photo above in no. 10. If tarp is NOT taut you will have to refit the tarp to the frame so there is very little chance of the roof tarp pocketing water.

25. 4 SIDED VALANCE : If you planned for a 4 sided valance, the section between the last two triangles 3 and 4 has to be cut so the over-hang is EXACTLY the same as the side valance since they use the same fitting. Be sure you understand this before attempting a 4 sided valance. A valance and sides will be assembled different from a tent without a valance. It is best to call me 713-467-3025 on assembly of a 4 sided valance.

26. PONDING. :One of the problems you should really watch out for is a loose roof tarp. See photos between 10 & 11 above. If the tarp is not tight it will pocket, pond water, collect and store water. If your tarp will be unattended and up for a long time we suggest you purchase additional trusses so that the opportunity for the tent to pond water will be significantly reduced. This reduces the roof span area from a 10x10 space to a 5x10 space. This makes it about 3 times stronger. These additional truss parts are available at a significantly reduced price. We want you to not have a problems with accumulating rain. You do not have to have a supporting leg under the additional truss. It is recommended that as soon as you are almost finished with the roof tarp that you take the garden hose to the top of the tent and let water run down over the tarp. If it starts to collect and does not run off then you need to adjust the tent so the water does not collect on the roof of the tarp. Consider using a dome tent. See the red box above or below.